Tuning Your Mountain Bike Suspension: An Introduction to Suspension Rebound and Set Up

Suspension rebound is a suspension tuning adjustment that controls the speed at which the suspension returns to its original position after being compressed. It determines how fast the shock absorber returns after a bump or impact, affecting the overall handling and performance of the bike.

Here is a step-by-step guide to set up the rebound on a mountain bike:

1. Identify the rebound adjuster: The rebound adjuster is usually located near the bottom of the shock absorber or on the side of the fork leg. It may be a knob, lever, or dial.
2. Get on your bike: Stand over the bike and compress the suspension with your body weight. Observe how quickly the suspension returns to its original position.
3. Adjust the rebound: Turn the rebound adjuster clockwise to slow down the rebound speed, or counterclockwise to speed it up. Keep making adjustments and testing the rebound until you find the setting that feels best for your riding style and the terrain.
4. Test ride: Take your bike for a test ride on different types of terrain, such as rocky or rooty sections, and observe how the suspension performs. If necessary, make additional adjustments to the rebound to fine-tune the suspension.
5. Repeat the process: Keep making adjustments and testing the rebound until you are satisfied with the performance of the suspension.

Remember, the ideal rebound setting is subjective and will vary depending on your weight, riding style, and the terrain. It may take some time to find the perfect setting, but it’s worth it to get the best performance from your bike.

How do I know if my rebound is too fast?

If the rebound of your suspension is set too fast, you may experience the following characteristics:

1. Pogo-sticking: The suspension will quickly bounce back after a bump or impact, causing the bike to feel like it’s bouncing up and down like a pogo stick.
2. Reduced traction: The fast rebound can cause the wheels to lose contact with the ground, reducing traction and stability.
3. Uncomfortable ride: The rapid bouncing of the suspension can cause a harsh and uncomfortable ride, making it difficult to control the bike.
4. Loss of control: The fast rebound can cause the bike to become unstable, making it difficult to maintain control, especially when riding over rough terrain.
5. Bottoming out: The suspension may bottom out, meaning it compresses too far, hitting the end of its stroke, which can cause damage to the bike and discomfort to the rider.

In general, if the rebound is set too fast, it can make the bike feel unpredictable and difficult to control, leading to a less enjoyable ride.

How do I know if my rebound is too slow?

If the rebound of your suspension is set too slow, you may experience the following characteristics:

1. Pack down: The suspension will not return quickly enough after a bump or impact, causing the bike to “pack down” or sink into its travel, reducing the amount of suspension available for the next impact.
2. Reduced stability: The slow rebound can cause the bike to feel unbalanced and unstable, especially when riding over rough terrain.
3. Poor handling: The suspension will not respond quickly enough to small bumps and impacts, causing the bike to feel unresponsive and difficult to handle.
4. Uncomfortable ride: The slow rebound can cause the suspension to feel stiff and unyielding, leading to a harsh and uncomfortable ride.
5. Reduced traction: The slow rebound can cause the wheels to stay in contact with the ground too long, reducing traction and stability.

In general, if the rebound is set too slow, it can make the bike feel sluggish, heavy, and difficult to handle, leading to a less enjoyable ride.

What is the difference between high-speed rebound and low-speed rebound?

High speed rebound and low speed rebound are terms used to describe the rebound rate of a suspension system at different speeds.

High speed rebound refers to the rebound rate of the suspension when it is subjected to fast-moving impacts, such as high-speed bumps or drops. The high-speed rebound setting controls how quickly the suspension returns to its original position after these types of impacts.

Low speed rebound, on the other hand, refers to the rebound rate of the suspension when it is subjected to slow-moving impacts, such as small bumps or roots. The low-speed rebound setting controls how quickly the suspension returns to its original position after these types of impacts.

In general, the high-speed rebound setting will be faster than the low-speed rebound setting to allow for a more controlled and stable ride over rough terrain. However, the ideal rebound settings will depend on the specific characteristics of your suspension system, your riding style, and the type of terrain you will be riding on.

Do I need to adjust by rebound to suit different types of terrain?

Yes, you can adjust the rebound to suit different types of terrain. Different terrains, such as rocky, rooty, or smooth, will affect the performance of your suspension in different ways, so it’s a good idea to make adjustments to the rebound to suit the terrain you will be riding on.

For example, on rocky terrain, you may want to slow down the rebound to allow the suspension to absorb the impacts and provide a more stable and controlled ride. On smoother terrain, you may want to speed up the rebound to allow the suspension to return more quickly and provide a livelier and more responsive ride.

It’s important to remember that the ideal rebound setting will vary depending on your weight, riding style, and the terrain, so it’s a good idea to experiment with different rebound settings and find the one that works best for you. The key is to find the right balance between rebound speed and control, so you can get the most out of your suspension and enjoy a smooth and stable ride.

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What are the benefits to converting to tubeless?

1. Reduced puncture risk: Tubeless tires reduce the risk of punctures because the liquid sealant inside the tire seals small holes and cuts, preventing the need for a traditional inner tube.
2. Lower rolling resistance: Tubeless tires offer a smoother and more efficient ride, resulting in lower rolling resistance and improved speed.
3. Improved grip: The ability to run lower tire pressure with tubeless tires provides improved grip, especially in technical terrain.
4. Increased comfort: The reduced friction and improved grip of tubeless tires result in a smoother and more comfortable ride, reducing fatigue on long rides.
5. Easier maintenance: Without the need for inner tubes, tubeless tires are easier to maintain and provide a lighter and more reliable system.

Converting your bicycle tires to tubeless is a great way to improve the performance and ride quality of your bike. Tubeless tires offer lower rolling resistance, increased puncture resistance, and a more comfortable ride compared to traditional tires with inner tubes. Here’s how to convert your bicycle tires to tubeless:

Step by Step Guide to Converting Your Bicycle Tyres to Tubeless

1. Choose the right tires and rims: Before you begin, make sure your tires and rims are compatible with tubeless technology. Look for tires labeled as “tubeless-ready” and make sure your rims have a smooth and consistent bead seat.
2. Prepare the rim: Clean the bead seat of your rim thoroughly to ensure a tight and airtight seal. Use isopropyl alcohol or rim tape to cover any spoke holes or irregularities.
3. Install the tubeless valve: Screw the tubeless valve onto the rim, making sure the base of the valve is properly seated in the rim’s valve hole.
4. Add sealant: Fill the tire with sealant, making sure it covers the entire inner surface of the tire. The sealant will help seal any punctures and prevent air loss.
5. Mount the tire: Mount the tire onto the rim, starting with the valve, and make sure the tire beads are properly seated. Inflate the tire to around 30 psi and spin the wheel to ensure the tire beads are fully seated.
6. Check for leaks: Check the tubeless system for any leaks by spinning the wheel and listening for hissing sounds. Check the valve, bead seat, and sidewalls for any signs of leakage.
7. Final inflation: Once you have checked for leaks, you can now inflate the tire to your desired pressure.

By converting your bicycle tires to tubeless, you can experience the benefits of a more efficient and comfortable ride. With proper setup and maintenance, tubeless tires can provide years of reliable performance.

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The larger 29” wheel provides increased stability, rollover ability and grip, which can be especially helpful when riding in rocky terrain. The 29” wheel is less likely to hang up on obstacles and the increased stability of the bike can make for a more controlled ride. For riders who are often kicked up the butt by their rear wheel when riding down steep trails, a smaller rear wheel can help with clearance.

For riders who want to experience livelier cornering, a smaller 27.5” wheel can be a great option. This wheel size is easier to flick from side to side, providing more room for gymnastic shapes and more agility on the trails. In addition, the reduced rotating mass and smaller diameter mean that the 27.5” wheel accelerates faster, which can help generate speed faster when riding through transitions and berms.

So, should you mullet your bike? Ultimately, the decision to mullet your bike will come down to your personal riding style and preferences. However, by understanding the benefits of each wheel size, you can make an informed decision that will help you get the most out of your rides.

So what are the benefits of mulleting my bike?

Riding a mulleted bike is the latest trend in mountain biking and for good reason. Not only does it give you a fresh look, but it also offers a range of benefits that will elevate your riding experience. Let’s dive into what makes mulleting your bike worth considering.

First and foremost, mulleting brings more control in rocky terrain. With a larger 29” wheel, you’ll roll over square-edged hits like rough rock gardens with ease. The wheel will hang up less, and the steering will be more controlled, making for a smoother and safer ride.

For those who love steep descents, mulleting also increases ass clearance. No more getting kicked up the butt by your rear wheel over steep drops. By fitting a smaller rear wheel, you’ll have better clearance and more room to try new tricks with confidence.

In addition to improved control, mulleting also offers livelier cornering. If your 29er feels a bit cumbersome in corners, or if you’re all about taking the inside line, switching to a 27.5” rear wheel can greatly improve your cornering experience. The smaller rear wheel is more manoeuvrable, making it easier to flick from side to side, and it provides more clearance for acrobatic movements.

Finally, mulleting can provide slacker geometry, perfect for riders who love to go off the brakes. The larger 29” front wheel provides increased stability, slackening out the head-angle and reducing rolling resistance, which speeds up your ride. Whether you’re a fan of technical descents or prefer a more relaxed, stable ride, mulleting is an upgrade worth considering.

Cons to mulleting your bike.

Changes to Bike Geometry: Mulleting your bike, or the addition of a larger or smaller wheel, can significantly impact its geometry by altering the head and seat tube angle, shortening the reach, and raising or lowering the bottom bracket.

Bottom Bracket Height Variation: The bottom bracket height can change significantly depending on the size of the new wheel and its placement on the bike. This can lead to pedal strikes if the bottom bracket height is already low.

Shorter Reach: The effective reach of the bike is reduced when the front is raised or the rear is lowered, causing the bike to feel more compact. To maintain a similar reach, you may need to fit a longer stem or adjust the rise on your handlebar.

Increased Cost: Mulleting your bike can be an expensive process, requiring the purchase of a new wheel and tire, and possibly a new fork and rotor.

The necessity of Upgrading the Front Rotor: If you opt for a larger 29” front wheel, it’s advisable to upgrade your front rotor for improved braking performance. An upgrade from a 180 mm rotor to a 200 mm rotor or from a 200 mm rotor to a 220 mm rotor can increase braking torque by 30% without adding significant weight.

Limitations on Tire Choice: If you try to squeeze a 29” wheel into a 27.5” fork, it may limit your tire choice due to tight clearances. This practice is not recommended as it can compromise the stability and safety of the bike

It may also void your warranty. If your bike is under warranty it’s worth checking first.

In conclusion

Mulleting your bike is a great option for anyone looking to enhance their riding experience. With its range of benefits, including improved control, increased clearance, livelier cornering, and slacker geometry, mulleting can help you take your mountain biking to the next level.

The post Should I mullet my bike? The Pros and Cons of Mulleting Your Bike appeared first on Edit MTB.

The idea behind the mullet bike is that the large 29” wheel provides stability and rollover ability, while the smaller 27.5” wheel allows for quick and nimble manoeuvring. This combination offers riders the best of both worlds, allowing them to navigate challenging terrain with ease and tackle tight turns with confidence.

Several bike brands, including Canyon, Nukeproof, Orange, and Merida, offer mullet bikes as part of their product lineup, providing riders with the option to purchase a pre-built bike that is designed to take advantage of the unique combination of wheel sizes. These bikes are typically designed with specific riding styles and terrains in mind, offering riders a range of options to suit their needs.

In addition to pre-built options, it is also possible for riders to create their own custom mullet bikes by combining different wheel sizes. This is a great option for those who have a specific vision for their bike and are looking for a unique ride that is tailored to their individual preferences and requirements.

When considering a mullet bike, it is important to consider individual riding styles and preferences. While the combination of wheel sizes offers many benefits, it is not always the right choice for every rider. For example, some riders may prefer the stability and predictability of a traditional bike, while others may be looking for a more challenging ride that requires a greater degree of skill and control.

In order to determine whether a mullet bike is the right choice for you, it is important to consider your riding style, the types of terrain you will be riding on, and the types of rides you enjoy.

Why 29″ Wheels Offer More Stability?

When it comes to wheel size, the answer is simple physics. When a wheel meets an obstacle, it creates a virtual ramp, connecting the top of the obstacle to the tire’s contact patch. The steeper the ramp, the harder it is for the wheel to roll over the obstacle.

Enter the 29″ wheel: it increases the distance between the obstacle and the contact patch, making it easier for the wheel to roll over it with less resistance and fatigue. Not to mention, the higher axle on a 29″ wheel also lowers the rider’s and bike’s center of gravity, adding extra stability. Plus, the larger wheel size provides a bigger contact patch for added grip. In short, a 29″ wheel rolls over obstacles more easily, offers more stability, and provides more grip.

Why 27.5” Wheels Offer More Agility on the Trail

When it comes to mountain biking, size doesn’t always matter. While larger 29” wheels boast more grip and stability, smaller 27.5” wheels pack a punch in the agility department. With a smaller diameter and reduced rotational mass, the 27.5” wheel can accelerate faster, meaning it’s easier to generate speed through transitions, berms, and aggressive turns.

The smaller contact patch also allows the tire to drift more easily, perfect for riders who like to get creative with their lines. The compact size also makes it less likely to overpower the rider on drops and steep trails. So, whether you’re looking for more playful turns or want to add some extra style to your ride, 27.5” wheels have got you covered.

The post What is a Mullet Bike? Understanding the Combination of Wheel Sizes. appeared first on Edit MTB.

1. A slack head angle can improve Stability: A slack head angle helps to create a longer wheelbase, improving stability and making the bike easier to control on steep descents and rough terrain.
2. Increased Confidence: A slack head angle provides a more relaxed and confident riding position, allowing the rider to tackle challenging terrain with greater ease and control.
3. Improved Cornering: With a slack head angle, the front wheel can be turned with less effort, improving cornering ability and allowing the rider to navigate tight and technical terrain with greater ease.
4. A slack head angle can mean better handling: A slack head angle helps to keep the front wheel planted, providing a more balanced and stable ride and allowing the rider to navigate obstacles and rough terrain with greater control.
5. Increased Versatility: A slack head angle can help to make the bike more versatile, allowing it to perform well on a variety of terrains, from steep descents to technical climbs.

In conclusion, choosing a mountain bike with a slack head angle can provide several benefits, including improved stability, increased confidence, better cornering, improved handling, and increased versatility. If you found this interesting, then also read our 5 reasons your next MTB should have a steep seat tube angle.

The post 5 Reasons your next mountain bike should have a slack head angle! appeared first on Edit MTB.

1. A steep seat tube improves Power Transfer: A steep seat tube angle helps to maintain a more efficient pedaling position, allowing the rider to transfer more power to the pedals and maintain traction on steep climbs.
2. A steep seat tube means increased Climbing Ability: A steep seat tube angle helps to keep the rider’s weight over the bottom bracket, improving weight distribution and increasing the bike’s climbing ability.
3. A steep seat tube offers better Balance: By keeping the rider’s weight over the front wheel, a steep seat tube angle helps to maintain balance, especially on steep and technical climbs.
4. Reduced Fatigue: A steep seat tube angle helps to reduce the rider’s hip angle, reducing the amount of energy required to maintain an efficient pedaling position and reducing fatigue on long climbs.
5. A steep seat tube means a confidence-Inspiring Ride: A steep seat tube angle provides a more upright riding position, giving the rider greater visibility and control, especially on technical climbs. This can help to increase confidence and improve the overall riding experience.

In summary, choosing a mountain bike with a steep seat tube angle can bring several benefits, including improved power transfer, increased climbing ability, better balance, reduced fatigue, and a confidence-inspiring ride.

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If you’re in the market for a new bike, or ebike, then you’ll know just how difficult it is to get your hands on a nice new shiny ride. Local bike shops are struggling to secure stock and manufacturers can’t get the parts they need due to supply chain issues. Throw in a pandemic and the rising cost of logistics and us mountain bikers have a serious problem on our hands.

But whereas bike shops are running dry, classifieds and second-hand marketplaces are teaming with ebikes for sale, but the question is ‘should you buy a second-hand ebike?’.

In the past, buying a second hand or used mountain bike was a breeze, as long as the frame, components and suspension were all in good condition and everything worked, there really was nothing to worry about, but ebikes bring with them many new and potentially expensive unknowns.

Below we’re going to run through a few areas to inspect on a prospective second-hand ebike purchase, give you tips on where you should search for a used emtb and the potential pitfalls of a second-hand ebike purchase.

As always though, our comments section remains open and if you have anything to add from your own experience we ask you to get involved and have your say.

10 things to check before buying a second-hand ebike

1. Check the condition of the ebike

We’re going to start with a basic visual look around the bike to see if there are any signs of wear and tear, or any potential problems on the horizon. Check the wear on the cassette, chain and chainring, an emtb has much more torque than a normal mountain bike and these items might need replacing. Ask the owner if they have been replaced in the past and check the quality of the new parts. Keep in mind you can use worn parts as a bargaining chip, but also keep in mind that spare parts aren’t easy to come by at this time.

Due to the weight of an ebike you should also check the wheels for dents in the rims, loose spokes, and also ensure the hubs are running smoothly. Also, ensure there is plenty of tread on the tires and there are no cracks or tears in the rubber.

There are a few signs to look at that will give you a good indication if the ebike has been well looked after. For example, if the frame is covered in a protective film and it was done when new, the chances are it will look like new beneath. Also, are the tyres high-quality models with a good rubber compound and strong construction? High-quality tires are not cheap and would suggest the owner has spared no expense maintaining their ebike.

2. Check for recalls

Ebikes contain a lot of technology not limited to the motor, and battery. You also need to consider the wiring harness, charging ports, connections, power button and display (if one is fitted). Earlier ebikes may have been affected by a recall so it would be wise to search the model and brand of bike you’re looking at and see if there have been any issued. Don’t worry too much if a recall has appeared, just ensure the necessary work was carried out when it was carried out, where (an official dealer) and check if there is any additional warranty from the manufacturer for that recall work.

3. Condition of the motor and battery

Like above, an ebike is a complicated piece of kit with many more components making the sum of its parts. For example, there can be as many parts in the motor alone as there is on a traditional bicycle and any one item could cause it to stop working. Whatsmore, some brands of the motor are NOT serviceable. Motors like the Shimano E8000 are not designed to be serviced and if there is an issue or a repair is needed a replacement motor might be the only option. It’s possible that the motor might already have been replaced so it’s worth checking, finding out where and who carried out the world and how many miles have been put on the new motor. The same applies for the battery.

If you’re looking at a bike with the original motor and battery then check to dashboard odometer to see how many miles have been put on the bike. Keep in mind though that some systems can easily be reset, so use your judgement and the condition of the bike to determine if you think the reading is accurate or not.

4. Connect to the bike via the application

Shimano, Specialized and other motor brands have a dedicated application that can be downloaded onto a smart device and then allows a connection to the ebike’s system. Some applications will be able to give you additional information about the ebike system, the health of the battery, and if the firmware is up to date. It’s also worth connecting to the bike to ensure you know the Bluetooth password, you don’t want to buy a bike to find you can’t connect to it once you get home.

5. Check you have a local service centre

Many ebikes will have either come from online stores or direct from manufacturers meaning if you do have a problem then it might not be very straightforward getting your eMTB serviced or repaired. It’s a good idea to fully understand the system that your ebike has and that there is a local specialist nearby who can help you if you ever need it.
Large mainstream brands such as Trek, Specialized or Giant will probably have an authorised store in most major cities. Even if your bike comes from a buy direct brand like Canyon then you don’t need to worry too much as any Shimano Service centre should be able to accommodate you.

However, it becomes more difficult when brands mix and match components (Bosch doesn’t allow this so Bosch fans need not worry). For example, the YT Decoy and Orbea Rise are easy widely thought of as Shimano powered ebikes, but the batteries used in these bikes are not Shimano units. This means if you were to have an issue with your battery a Shimano Service centre might not be able to assist you.

6. Read the forums

There are plenty of savvy ebike riders on the web it’s well worth joining a few forums or even Facebook groups so that you can fully educate yourself before purchasing a second-hand ebike. These groups will have frank and open discussions about possible issues, and even ways to remedy them.

Forums and groups are also a great place to find potential second-hand ebikes for sale. If it’s a riding club even better as fellow riders can point you in the right direction of a purchase and even inform you of a bikes history.

7. If it’s too good to be true walk away

This old saying can be used for almost anything that seems like to perfect a bargain. Unless you know and fully trust the seller then be wary of ebikes going very cheap or just seem a little fishy. Of course, we all want to pick up a bargain but you don’t want to be lumbered with a dodgy ebike or something that was potentially stolen.

Speaking of which, if you do come across a bike that you do think might have been stolen it is worth again checking on social media to see if anyone has reported anything. Some websites are used to report and relocate stolen bikes, you never know there might even be a reward.

8. Check for corrosion and rust

Corrosion and rust can build up on the drivetrain if a bike hasn’t been well maintained or if it’s simply been left in a damp shed. However, it’s also worth looking at rusty bolt heads, or any corrosion around the motor or power inputs. Staining in these areas might suggest a bike has been cleaned with a pressure washer on a regular basis and as we all know, water and electricity don’t mix.

If you’re able to, open the battery compartment and remove the battery to check the connections. Check on the battery and on the inside of the frame. Also, if the seller is willing to, see if you can drop the motor and check the connections there too, on some bikes this is much more difficult than others.

9. Keys and accessories

Earlier ebikes were shipped with keys to lock the battery in place, ensure that the seller of your bike has at least 1 of those keys otherwise you will not be able to remove the battery for cleaning, storage or replacement.

Also don’t forget the charge, and additional cable and inspect their condition. Before paying also see if you can check that the battery charges correctly when the charge is connected and there are no flashing lights or warnings.

10. Price

If you have checked all of the above and are happy with the bike then it all comes down to the price. Second-hand ebike prices are very high at the moment and the continued shortage of parts and bikes means those prices are likely to stick around for some time but use the information above to haggle and get yourself a bargain.

We hope these 10 tips help you with your second-hand ebike buying decision, if you have anything to add them please let us know in the comments below.

The post Should I buy a second-hand ebike? 10 things you should know before buying a used ebike. appeared first on Edit MTB.