1. Error code E010: Low Battery Voltage – Charge your battery or replace it if necessary.
2. Error code E012: Overheating – Turn off your e-bike and let it cool down before trying again.
3. Error code E013: Motor Not Responding – Check the connections between the motor and control unit and make sure the motor isn’t damaged.
4. Error code E014: Control Unit Not Receiving Battery Signals – Check the connections and battery for damage.
5. Error code E015: Malfunction in Control Unit – Try resetting the system or have a professional inspect it.
6. Error code E016: Brake Sensor Issues – Check the connections and make sure the sensors aren’t damaged.
7. Error code E021: Power Assist Sensor Problems – Check the connections and make sure the sensors aren’t damaged.
8. Error code E022: Speed Sensor Issues – Check the connections and make sure the sensors aren’t damaged.
9. Error code E023: Torque Sensor Problems – Check the connections and make sure the sensors aren’t damaged.
10. Error code E031: Firmware Issues – Try updating the firmware, or have a professional inspect it.

Keep in mind, these solutions are general guidelines and the specific solution for a particular error code may vary based on your e-bike model and the specific problem. If you’re unable to resolve the error, it’s always best to have your e-bike inspected by a professional.

The post Shimano EP8 Error Codes: The Top 10 Issues and How to Tackle Them appeared first on Edit MTB.

The information provided in the above article is intended for general informational purposes only and is not a substitute for professional legal advice. The laws and regulations regarding the use of electric mountain bikes (e-MTBs) are subject to change and may vary in different countries. It is the responsibility of the e-MTB rider to familiarize themselves with and comply with the applicable laws and regulations in their country and in any other country where they intend to ride their e-MTB. OpenAI assumes no responsibility for any errors or omissions in the information provided and makes no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the information, products, services, or related graphics contained in this article for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk.

Electric Mountain Bike Laws and Regulations Around the World: A Comprehensive Guide

An electric mountain bike (e-MTB) is a bicycle that has an integrated electric motor and battery, which provides assistance when pedaling. E-MTBs have become increasingly popular in recent years as a way for people to enjoy mountain biking without having to push through difficult terrain. However, the use of e-MTBs is governed by different laws and regulations around the world.

Europe Electric Mountain Bike Laws and Regulations

In Europe, e-MTBs are classified as “pedelecs,” which are bicycles that only provide assistance when the rider is pedaling. According to EU regulations, pedelecs are limited to a maximum power output of 250 watts and a maximum assisted speed of 25 km/h. These regulations also require pedelecs to have a functional pedal sensor, which ensures that the electric motor only provides assistance when the rider is pedaling.

UK Electric Mountain Bike Laws and Regulations

In the United Kingdom, e-MTBs are classified as either “pedelecs” or “electrically assisted bicycles” (EABs), depending on the power output of the electric motor. Pedelecs are limited to a maximum power output of 250 watts and a maximum assisted speed of 15.5 mph. EABs are limited to a maximum power output of 750 watts and a maximum assisted speed of 15.5 mph. In the UK, e-MTBs can be ridden on public footpaths, bridleways, and cycle paths, but not on public roads or cycle lanes.

U.S Electric Mountain Bike Laws and Regulations

In the United States, e-MTBs are governed by different regulations in each state. Some states classify e-MTBs as bicycles, while others classify them as “low-speed electric bicycles” (LSEBs) or “motorized bicycles.” LSEBs are limited to a maximum power output of 750 watts and a maximum assisted speed of 20 mph. In most states, e-MTBs can be ridden on public trails, but some states have restrictions on their use in certain areas.

Australia Electric Mountain Bike Laws and Regulations

In Australia, e-MTBs are classified as “pedelecs” and are limited to a maximum power output of 250 watts and a maximum assisted speed of 25 km/h. In Australia, e-MTBs can be ridden on public trails, but some states have restrictions on their use in certain areas.

Canada Electric Mountain Bike Laws and Regulations

In Canada, e-MTBs are classified as either “power-assisted bicycles” (PABs) or “limited-speed motorcycles.” PABs are limited to a maximum power output of 500 watts and a maximum assisted speed of 32 km/h. Limited-speed motorcycles are limited to a maximum power output of 750 watts and a maximum assisted speed of 70 km/h. In Canada, e-MTBs can be ridden on public trails, but some provinces have restrictions on their use in certain areas.

Japan Electric Mountain Bike Laws and Regulations

In Japan, e-MTBs are classified as “electric bicycles” and are limited to a maximum power output of 250 watts and a maximum assisted speed of 25 km/h. In Japan, e-MTBs can be ridden on public trails, but some prefectures have restrictions on their use in certain areas.

The laws and regulations regarding the use of e-MTBs vary greatly from country to country. It is important for e-MTB riders to familiarize themselves with the laws and regulations in their area to ensure that they are riding safely and legally. In general, e-MTBs are limited to a maximum power output of 250-750 watts and a maximum assisted speed of 25-70 km/h. E-MTBs can be ridden on public trails in most countries, but there may be restrictions on their use in certain areas.

The post Electric Mountain Bike Laws and Regulations Around the World: A Comprehensive Guide appeared first on Edit MTB.

Here’s a list of some common mountain bike acronyms with a more detailed explanation of each one:

1. MTB – Mountain Bike: Refers to bikes designed for off-road riding on rough terrain, including mountains, trails, and other natural environments.
2. DH – Downhill: Refers to a type of mountain biking that focuses on descending steep and technical trails at high speeds.
3. DC – Down Country is the name given to the new breed of aggressive shorter travel bikes.
4. XC – Cross-country: Refers to a type of mountain biking that emphasizes speed, endurance, and efficient use of energy over technical riding skills.
5. FR – Freeride: Refers to a type of mountain biking that combines elements of downhill and freestyle riding, focusing on technical tricks, jumps, and stunts.
6. GEO – The orientation of a bicycle’s frame tubes, known as the frame angles, plays a crucial role in determining how the bike handles. A frame with smaller angles is referred to as “slack” and is commonly found on downhill (DH) or freeride (FR) mountain bikes. On the other hand, a frame with larger angles is described as “steep” and is typically seen on cross-country (XC) mountain bikes.
7. TR – Trail: Refers to a type of mountain biking that emphasizes a balance between technical riding skills and endurance, with an emphasis on having fun on a variety of terrains.
8. AM – All-mountain: Refers to a type of mountain biking that encompasses a wide range of riding styles, including cross-country, trail, and freeride.
9. SS – Single Speed: Refers to a type of mountain bike that has only one gear, making it simpler and more efficient for certain types of riding.
10. FS – Full Suspension: Refers to a type of mountain bike that has suspension on both the front and rear of the frame, providing greater comfort and control on rough terrain.
11. HT – Hardtail: Refers to a type of mountain bike that has suspension only on the front of the frame, making it lighter and more efficient for certain types of riding.
12. BB – Bottom Bracket: Refers to the part of the bike frame where the cranks and pedals are mounted, providing a pivot point for the rider’s pedaling motion.
13. MECH – Derailleur: Refers to a type of mechanism that allows the rider to change gears on a bike, by moving the chain from one sprocket to another.
14. IGH – Internal Gear Hub: Refers to a type of transmission that is built into the rear hub of a bike, providing a cleaner, more reliable way to change gears.
15. LBS – Local Bike Shop: Refers to a retail store that specializes in the sale and service of bicycles and related gear.
16. E-MTB – Electric Mountain Bike: Refers to a type of mountain bike that is equipped with electric assistance, allowing riders to tackle steep and technical terrain more easily.
17. RIM – Rim: Refers to the outer part of a bike wheel, which supports the tire and provides a surface for braking.
18. DISC – Disc Brakes: Refers to a type of brake that uses a metal rotor attached to the wheel hub, along with calipers that grip the rotor in order to slow or stop the bike.
19. SPOKES – Spokes: Refers to the thin metal rods that connect the hub of a bike wheel to the rim, providing support and helping to distribute the weight of the rider and bike evenly.
20. UDH – Stands for Universal Derailleur Hanger and is a new standard created by SRAM to allow the fitment of a rear derailleur to a bike.
21. EWS – EWS refers to Enduro World Series, the previous name to the Enduro Racing series now known as EDR.

The post Discover the Essential 21 Mountain Bike Acronyms Every Biker Must Know appeared first on Edit MTB.

Despite its popularity with mountain bikers, Nukeproof Industries struggled after the American bike boom and the name might have been relegated to the history books if not for downhill racer Michael Cowan. Michael combined his passion for racing with product development and soon launched a range of gravity orientated components, frames. Nukeproof latest frame though has a motor and battery integrated into it!

Nukeproof Megawatt Review – Design details and specifications

It’s fitting that Nukeproof chose to give its first eMTB the Megawatt name, after all the Mega was one of the frames which helped relaunch the Nukeproof brand back in 2010. Being named after such a popular and successful model, also meant that expectations were going to be pretty high for this eMTB, and it’s clear that Nukeproof took time to develop the Megawatt to create a bike that actually works rather than something to cash in on the eMTB boom.

While being quite late to the eMTB party, Nukeproof have actually been extremely wise. There can’t be many bike brands that can claim their first eMTB had an integrated battery, but waiting for technology to mature and listening to what customers actually want has helped Nukeproof leapfrog in the realm of assisted bikes.

Nukeproof will always be associated with high adrenaline and gravity riding, so it comes as no surprise that the Megawatt is an eMTB with a gravity bias to it, and so it needs the torque and range to access as many descents as possible. Inside the large alloy downtube, you’ll find a Shimano 625Wh battery, and slung beneath that the latest Shimano EP8 with 85Nm of Torque.

The updated EP8 system has 15nm more torque than the previous E8000 motor, and new firmware and app updates make it a whole lot more user-configurable. From the Shimano E-Tube app, you have access to tuning the various assist modes from max torque to power delivery. I tend to run Eco mode at around 23Nm, which is more than enough for most climbs and ensures I’m able to get as much riding done from the large battery. As an example, I was able to cover over 1544m of climbing during a 51km ride in the Peak District with the Megawatt and still had battery to spare for a road Boost back to the van!

Like any EP8 system, the Megawatt has 3 assist modes, Eco, Trail and Boost and each can be configured to how you want. I tend to leave EP8 bikes in Eco for big climbs then Boost for the downhill sections. For more flowing trails, Trail mode is where I like the EP8 to be.

Having all that torque on tap is all well and good, but it’s hardly useful if you can’t convert that to traction and forward movement. The Megawatt uses a mullet wheel configuration meaning a larger 29in wheel on the front with a smaller 27.5in wheel on the rear. It’s claimed that a smaller rear wheel ensures a more playful ride, and faster cornering. It’s difficult to quantify, but I do feel dual 29in wheels provide better all-out speed and traction.

A smaller rear wheel also has a few more advantages. Shorter riders will have more clearance and won’t receive a butt buzz as often when getting off the back of the bike, and a smaller wheel means shorter spokes and a stronger wheel. Important when the all aluminium Megawatt weighs in at a hefty 24kg. The wheels on our Factory spec Megawatt are DT-Swiss H1700 models show in Maxxis rubber, an Assegai on the front and High Roller II on the rear. To give you an understanding of how important it is for a weighty eMTB to have stronger components, I still managed to puncture the rear tyre despite it boasting a DD casing!

With the wheels and tyres sorted, the Megawatt needs to ensure they maintain traction in a rugged enduro/downhill setting so quality suspension is in order. In terms of rear suspension, we should not just look at the rear shock for performance but also the rear suspension linkage and kinematics. There would be no point bolting a high-end rear shock to a linkage that didn’t work, but we needn’t worry about the Megawatt, as the rear suspension is incredible.

Nukeproof based the suspension platform of the Megawatt on the Mega, with a slight change in Antisquat to enable a supple off the top feel for small bump compliance. That’s one of the benefits of having a motor, you’re able to adapt the suspension to retain traction and comfort without worrying too much about the pedalling performance. The supple of the top feel becomes more progressive through the travel with a supportive mid-stroke. On the trail the Megawatt doesn’t feel like a 170mm travel bike, it doesn’t wallow or bob around too much, yet there’s plenty of wheel movement to iron out rock gardens, steps and drops. The reduced anti-squat and improved off the top performance ensures the small rear wheel remains in contact with the ground on climbs too, this with 85Nm of torque available allows the Megawatt to tackle gradients you might not dream of on your standard Mega.

Controlling the rear wheel on our Factory Megawatt is a Fox Factory Float X2, at the front is a Fox Factory 38 producing an equal 170mm of travel. I’ll admit that I’m a huge fan of the updated Fox suspension with new updates to the Grip damper and VVC, but as fancy as a gold Kashima coating might look, I’d be just as happy on the cheaper black stanchions and save a little cash. A full complement of Enduro sealed bearings should ensure smooth operation and minimal maintenance.

The 29er fork fits the aluminium frame via a 64-degree head angle, suitably slack for a gravity focussed bike. This is matched to a 77.5-degree effective seat tube angle on our medium-sized test bike, but larger bikes get a 78-degree seat angle. This is as about as steep as I would like to get, it gives a nice seated position that feels much more compact than the 455mm reach might suggest for an efficient seated position. The steeper seat angle also helps to keep your body centred which keeps the rear wheel in contact with loose terrain on the climbs but prevents the front wheel from floating when ascends become especially steep.

Nukeproof has followed modern frame design trends with a short seat tube with enough clearance to slam a long dropper. This means that this size medium bike suits riders from 167cm – 177cm, and I would say that I agree with this sizing as at 178cm I find myself wishing the longer reach of a size large frame. The beauty of the lower seat tube and long dropper though means it’s very easy to size up or down and find a frame size that you’re 100% comfortable with.

Nukeproof Megawatt Review – Geometry

As mentioned in the intro, Nukeproof develops and sells a lot of it own components, so its hardly surprising to see plenty of Nukeproof branded kit on this Factory bike. In the past, own brand componentry was seen as a cost-cutting measure, but Nukeproof makes a lot of product that ends up on dream builds, so I was extremely happy with the NP branded 800mm bar, 50mm stem, saddle and grips.

I was also really happy to see a BikeYoke dropper post on the Megawatt. BikeYoke makes some of the smoothest droppers on the market, and they tend to require less servicing than other brand dropper posts. Our medium-sized back has a 160mm dropper, XL and XXL bikes gain a 185mm post.

Nukeproof Megawatt Review – Riding the Megawatt

Climbing

With almost the same kinematic and anti-squat as the non-motorised Mega, the Megawatt is unsurprisingly a very capable climber. While featuring a lower value than the Mega, the anti-squat on the Megawatt actually increases in the climbing gears while dropping off slightly in lower gears for descending. This ensures the rear suspension flutters nicely over loose terrain for maximum climbing traction, and that’s especially important when the EP8 motor knocks out 85Nm of torque. Chances are you won’t be Boosting up many climbs though, and even in Trail, Eco or a detuned Eco mode, as I run it, the Megawatt has more than enough grunt and grip to conquer even the most gruelling climbs.

Our Factory build bike is fitted has a compressions lever on the rear shock which helps to firm the rear end up if needed, but with our prefered suspension setting we never felt the need to use it.

With the 4 bar suspension ensuring traction, the modern geometry keeps the rider in a comfortable position with the steep seat tube angle ensuring that the rider can muscle their way up the climbs, or just sit back and let the motor do its thing.

Descending

A 170mm travel eMTB might climb exceptionally well, but climbing is only a means to an end on a bike like this. What we really want to know is just how well it handles on the way back down again.

Running a full compliment of Enduro Max bearings throughout the rear suspension and featuring a lower shock bearing, the rear end is buttery smooth through its travel. The slightly lower Anti-squat and smooth action ensure even the smallest trail obstacle is absorbed through the rear suspension. The Megawatt manages this without any unwanted bob, and without feeling like too much of a burly bruise, and this weighty eeb still manages to have a playful characteristic. While lifting the Megawatt over a fence reveals its weight, all those lbs melt away on the trail making direction changes a breeze

The frame and rear suspension are backed up with a solid assortment of kit that opens up the full descending potential of the Nukeproof. Strong wheels, quality rubber, and powerful brakes all mean that every second of downhill speed you make on the steeps is safely transformed into a cornering grip.

If we had one complaint about the Megawatt when riding downhill it would be the Shimano EP8 motor. While not as noisy as they originally were, the Shimano motor does have a slight rattle to it, but it’s a noise most riders generally get used to very quickly.

Is there anything we would change about the Megawatt?

The Megawatt is obviously a great bike, but even the best of bikes can be improved upon and there are a few small areas we think Nukeproof’s first eMTB can be made even better, but neither is a deal-breaker.

A Double Down tyre on the rear is a no brainer on a heavy eMTB like the Megawatt and we commend Nukeproof for this, but as we’ve found during many bike tests, the white label Maxxis tyres aren’t strong enough. Maxxis tyres with a white logo are OE parts, in other words, only manufacturers can buy and spec them on their bikes. Reading through the specs there is no difference between a white label Maxxis tyre and an aftermarket yellow label tyre. However, we’ve long suspected that OE tyres aren’t as strong and the advent of eBikes has proven this with many many punctures.

Another area that needs a little extra strength is the Shimano XT chain. Shimano claims that their chains are suitable for ebikes, but we’ve managed to break a few and the Shimano XT M8100 HG chain on the Megawatt was no exception. An eMTB specific chain would be preferable and we recommend riding with a spare quick-link and trail side chain tool to fix any issues you might run into.

Finally, there is a small plastic bridge that holds the gear cable and brake hose at a fixed length behind the motor. It often unclips and we’re constantly expecting it to disappear during a ride.

Overall

We may have pointed out a few niggles, but nothing takes away the shine and pure joy the Megawatt delivers. Nukeproof’s engineers have adapted the suspension perfectly for the additional torque and speed the Shimano EP8 delivers. With 170mm of travel front and rear, the Megawatt is perfectly suited to shuttling at the bike park, but it’s also capable of so much more. If you’re dreaming of a big travel bike that you can take anywhere, the Nukeproof Megawatt may well be it!

Well, we hope we covered all the bases in our review of the Nukeproof Megawatt if you have any questions or comments head into our forum and fire away!

The post Nukeproof Megawatt Review – This Mega with a motor is a riot that loves to rail! appeared first on Edit MTB.

But what about eMTB specific clothing?

While there are ebike-specific items we can all agree on, there are a few grey areas. Would you buy eBike specific shorts? EMTB gloves? What about ebike specific shoes?

Fizik certainly hopes there is a market for ebike shoes, as that’s exactly what the Fizik Terra Ergolace X2 flat shoes are meant to be, a flat shoe with features and design elements that make them perfect for eMTB riders.

So what are these eMTB ready features?

A scan of the Fizik website doesn’t really cement the idea that these shoes were solely made for ebike riders, and let’s be honest there is nothing stopping any flat pedal rider from running these shoes, but there are features that eMTB riders will appreciate.

The eMTB specific characteristics really focus on the sole and tread design of this shoe, with the Fizik team paying particular attention on the stiffness and level of traction on offer. Starting with stiffness, Fizik has its own stiffness index, with a higher number meaning a stiffer shoe. Obviously clipped in/SPD shoes get the highest numbers whereas flat shoes get lower stiffness index measurements. The Terra Ergolace X2 has a rating of 3 which is slightly stiffer than the Tensor DH shoe, but significantly more supple than a level 7 Tempo road shoe.

The fact the Terra Ergolace X2 is slightly stiffer than an enduro or gravity shoe actually makes a lot of sense. An eMTB by its very nature should be able to ride up most climbs that would have you pushing on a standard MTB and because you shouldn’t need to walk in them as often, Fizik could add a little stiffness to them for increased pedalling efficiency. With this in mind, Fizik didn’t want to make them too difficult to walk in so a level 3 rating gives a good compromise of pedalling performance and walking comfort.

Take a look beneath the Terra Ergolace X2 and the widely spaced tread design promises plenty of mechanical grip with ample room for pedal pins to be located and locked between each knob. The tread design is deeper at the toe for better hike-a-bike traction, but the overall pattern is much more aggressive and off-road friendly than say a Five Ten. This again is part of the eMTB specific magic. You see, although an eMTB can climb up the most challenging hills, it does mean that those climbs you can’t pedal up must be exceptionally difficult, muddy or loose, and so good shoe traction is very much welcome. The deep tread of the Fizik Terra Ergolace X2 should provide plenty of support on the steeps when walk mode is running at full gas.

As for the rest of the shoe, well the outsole and lace design are pretty much identical to that found on the Fizik Gravita shoe with a padded toe box area for protection but with additional side padding.

Fizik uses its Ergolace pattern that cradles the foot for a secure fit. The simple lace-up design keeps the shoe in place, is easy to adjust and is cleverly angled outward, away from your eMTB motor, chainring and chain. There is also a simple elasticated band on the tongue to keep lace loops from being gobbled up by greedy drivetrains.

Compared to some shoes, the Fizik is a very slim shoe and despite the addition of PU laminated reinforcement, it avoids that bulky skate shoe look. The lack of chunky material gives the Terra Ergolace X2 a second-skin-like level of fit and creates a shoe that is not only cool and comfortable but one that dries quickly too.

Fizik Terra Ergolace X2 Just for eBikers?

Although the Terra Ergolace X2 might be aimed at eBike riders, there is no reason mountain bikers and cyclists, in general, couldn’t ride in them. In fact, riders wanting a flat shoe with a tread pattern that’s a little more versatile in varied terrain should certainly keep them in mind.

We’ll be putting the Fizik Terra Ergolace X2 flat shoe through their paces over the next few months and publishing a review once we come to a conclusion on these eMTB ready clogs.

In the meantime, if you have any questions head to our forum and join the discussion about these, and other ebike specific products.

The post First Look: Fizik Terra Ergolace X2 Ebike Specific Shoes appeared first on Edit MTB.

If you’re in the market for a new bike, or ebike, then you’ll know just how difficult it is to get your hands on a nice new shiny ride. Local bike shops are struggling to secure stock and manufacturers can’t get the parts they need due to supply chain issues. Throw in a pandemic and the rising cost of logistics and us mountain bikers have a serious problem on our hands.

But whereas bike shops are running dry, classifieds and second-hand marketplaces are teaming with ebikes for sale, but the question is ‘should you buy a second-hand ebike?’.

In the past, buying a second hand or used mountain bike was a breeze, as long as the frame, components and suspension were all in good condition and everything worked, there really was nothing to worry about, but ebikes bring with them many new and potentially expensive unknowns.

Below we’re going to run through a few areas to inspect on a prospective second-hand ebike purchase, give you tips on where you should search for a used emtb and the potential pitfalls of a second-hand ebike purchase.

As always though, our comments section remains open and if you have anything to add from your own experience we ask you to get involved and have your say.

10 things to check before buying a second-hand ebike

1. Check the condition of the ebike

We’re going to start with a basic visual look around the bike to see if there are any signs of wear and tear, or any potential problems on the horizon. Check the wear on the cassette, chain and chainring, an emtb has much more torque than a normal mountain bike and these items might need replacing. Ask the owner if they have been replaced in the past and check the quality of the new parts. Keep in mind you can use worn parts as a bargaining chip, but also keep in mind that spare parts aren’t easy to come by at this time.

Due to the weight of an ebike you should also check the wheels for dents in the rims, loose spokes, and also ensure the hubs are running smoothly. Also, ensure there is plenty of tread on the tires and there are no cracks or tears in the rubber.

There are a few signs to look at that will give you a good indication if the ebike has been well looked after. For example, if the frame is covered in a protective film and it was done when new, the chances are it will look like new beneath. Also, are the tyres high-quality models with a good rubber compound and strong construction? High-quality tires are not cheap and would suggest the owner has spared no expense maintaining their ebike.

2. Check for recalls

Ebikes contain a lot of technology not limited to the motor, and battery. You also need to consider the wiring harness, charging ports, connections, power button and display (if one is fitted). Earlier ebikes may have been affected by a recall so it would be wise to search the model and brand of bike you’re looking at and see if there have been any issued. Don’t worry too much if a recall has appeared, just ensure the necessary work was carried out when it was carried out, where (an official dealer) and check if there is any additional warranty from the manufacturer for that recall work.

3. Condition of the motor and battery

Like above, an ebike is a complicated piece of kit with many more components making the sum of its parts. For example, there can be as many parts in the motor alone as there is on a traditional bicycle and any one item could cause it to stop working. Whatsmore, some brands of the motor are NOT serviceable. Motors like the Shimano E8000 are not designed to be serviced and if there is an issue or a repair is needed a replacement motor might be the only option. It’s possible that the motor might already have been replaced so it’s worth checking, finding out where and who carried out the world and how many miles have been put on the new motor. The same applies for the battery.

If you’re looking at a bike with the original motor and battery then check to dashboard odometer to see how many miles have been put on the bike. Keep in mind though that some systems can easily be reset, so use your judgement and the condition of the bike to determine if you think the reading is accurate or not.

4. Connect to the bike via the application

Shimano, Specialized and other motor brands have a dedicated application that can be downloaded onto a smart device and then allows a connection to the ebike’s system. Some applications will be able to give you additional information about the ebike system, the health of the battery, and if the firmware is up to date. It’s also worth connecting to the bike to ensure you know the Bluetooth password, you don’t want to buy a bike to find you can’t connect to it once you get home.

5. Check you have a local service centre

Many ebikes will have either come from online stores or direct from manufacturers meaning if you do have a problem then it might not be very straightforward getting your eMTB serviced or repaired. It’s a good idea to fully understand the system that your ebike has and that there is a local specialist nearby who can help you if you ever need it.
Large mainstream brands such as Trek, Specialized or Giant will probably have an authorised store in most major cities. Even if your bike comes from a buy direct brand like Canyon then you don’t need to worry too much as any Shimano Service centre should be able to accommodate you.

However, it becomes more difficult when brands mix and match components (Bosch doesn’t allow this so Bosch fans need not worry). For example, the YT Decoy and Orbea Rise are easy widely thought of as Shimano powered ebikes, but the batteries used in these bikes are not Shimano units. This means if you were to have an issue with your battery a Shimano Service centre might not be able to assist you.

6. Read the forums

There are plenty of savvy ebike riders on the web it’s well worth joining a few forums or even Facebook groups so that you can fully educate yourself before purchasing a second-hand ebike. These groups will have frank and open discussions about possible issues, and even ways to remedy them.

Forums and groups are also a great place to find potential second-hand ebikes for sale. If it’s a riding club even better as fellow riders can point you in the right direction of a purchase and even inform you of a bikes history.

7. If it’s too good to be true walk away

This old saying can be used for almost anything that seems like to perfect a bargain. Unless you know and fully trust the seller then be wary of ebikes going very cheap or just seem a little fishy. Of course, we all want to pick up a bargain but you don’t want to be lumbered with a dodgy ebike or something that was potentially stolen.

Speaking of which, if you do come across a bike that you do think might have been stolen it is worth again checking on social media to see if anyone has reported anything. Some websites are used to report and relocate stolen bikes, you never know there might even be a reward.

8. Check for corrosion and rust

Corrosion and rust can build up on the drivetrain if a bike hasn’t been well maintained or if it’s simply been left in a damp shed. However, it’s also worth looking at rusty bolt heads, or any corrosion around the motor or power inputs. Staining in these areas might suggest a bike has been cleaned with a pressure washer on a regular basis and as we all know, water and electricity don’t mix.

If you’re able to, open the battery compartment and remove the battery to check the connections. Check on the battery and on the inside of the frame. Also, if the seller is willing to, see if you can drop the motor and check the connections there too, on some bikes this is much more difficult than others.

9. Keys and accessories

Earlier ebikes were shipped with keys to lock the battery in place, ensure that the seller of your bike has at least 1 of those keys otherwise you will not be able to remove the battery for cleaning, storage or replacement.

Also don’t forget the charge, and additional cable and inspect their condition. Before paying also see if you can check that the battery charges correctly when the charge is connected and there are no flashing lights or warnings.

10. Price

If you have checked all of the above and are happy with the bike then it all comes down to the price. Second-hand ebike prices are very high at the moment and the continued shortage of parts and bikes means those prices are likely to stick around for some time but use the information above to haggle and get yourself a bargain.

We hope these 10 tips help you with your second-hand ebike buying decision, if you have anything to add them please let us know in the comments below.

The post Should I buy a second-hand ebike? 10 things you should know before buying a used ebike. appeared first on Edit MTB.

Pole Voima E-Bike Key Features

• Brose Motor and BMZ V10 725W battery
• Battery install from the top of the downtube
• Power inlet close to the headtube away from elements
• Elevated chainstays for less chain slap and ease of use
• Suspension kinematics that works perfectly with a motor
• Brose Motor set completely inside the frame covered from the elements 
• ISCG-05 mount
• Seat post cable can be installed without removing the motor
• Disk speed sensor
• SRAM Universal Derailleur Hanger
• Two bottle mounts. One on the bottom of the downtube and one top of the downtube
• The only 7075-T6 aluminium-framed e-bike in the world
• An exclusive Pole suspension platform and design.
• Double bearing links

Pole Voima E-Bike Gallery

Pole Voima E-Bike Geometry

Pole Voima E-Bike Pricing

• Frame: €5490 introduction price €5990 RRP
• Complete Bike: €8490 introduction price €8990 RRP

Pole Voima E-Bike Press Release

More is More. A principle that we strongly believe in at Pole Bicycles. Our ethos is held firmly in function before form and form follows function. The Pole Voima (meaning Power in Finnish) is all of these principles coming together. 

The idea behind the Voima is simple; Ride up, along, and down faster. We worked hard to create a bike with better pedaling efficiency that had longer travel, the assistance of a motor, and a long-lasting battery range. It’s all about maintaining power transfer from our pedal motion to trail speed mechanically, not only from the assistance of the motor, and with the right suspension kinematics. Our modern suspension design allows us to make the most of pedaling efficiency without a loss of energy. Because of this, the Voima is the ultimate enduro, park bike, long-distance trail rig, and DH play bike all in one. 

The Voima has more power, more travel, and it can cover a greater distance. Sourcing the latest technology, we were able to create a bike that didn’t weigh over the odds and has more range and suspension travel. There are no compromises in terms of suspension kinematics, geometry, or how the bike rides either. Based on a completely new suspension platform – a design that has been tested across both bikes with and without a motor and battery. It has proven to be lively and active but without compromising on pedaling efficiency or suspension dynamics.

The whole point of an e-bike is that you can ride it seated or standing and the suspension remains compliant. An e-bike should also pedal efficiently without sacrificing the suspension sensitivity or feel.

The Voima has been designed as the truest form of what we believe an e-bike should be. We never benchmark against other bikes and the Voima is no exception. It is not based on an existing bike model with an e-bike motor and battery adapted into the original design either. It has been designed and created as an e-bike from the ground up. 

Developed in partnership with Matti Lehikoinen, the Voima has been tested, refined, and adapted over a two-year period. 

What is More?

With 190mm travel front and rear, the Voima is also the only completely CNC machined and bonded 7075-T6 aluminum-framed e-bike in the world. We’ve also designed the frame to be dual crown compatible. 

Race tested and approved, we already have two e-bike race wins under our belt with the Voima and will soon complete the industry’s toughest EFBE safety testing in Germany. 

The Voima runs a Brose S Mag motor and BMZ V10 725W battery. We chose Brose because of the great power delivery without being overpowered. The motor is set completely inside the frame, sheltered from trail elements, a decision made after extensive testing of weatherability during design and development. As a comparison, we also tested the motor completely uncovered and exposed to the elements to make sure that connections between the battery and the motor lasted over a long period of time. The Brose motor delivers power naturally and effortlessly but still has 90NM of torque when it’s needed.

One of the most common problems we discovered during research and development in most e-bike designs was water penetration into the charging ports or poor connections between the battery and socket. So we’ve integrated a power inlet close to the head tube of the bike, not only to help ease of charging but also to prevent ingress from water and other trail debris.

SENSEI suspension

We designed the suspension kinematics for bikes that need room for a motor or a gearbox. SENSEI is versatile with different chainring sizes and pedals extremely well due to a virtual pivot point that hovers near the chain line. SENSEI suspension has a falling rate of leverage ratio (progressive) and a falling rate of anti-squat to keep the pedal feedback low. We have reduced the ground feedback significantly and brought more balance to cornering and jumps. The shock is mounted sideways to minimize the stress to the shock bushings and suspension works more effortlessly. The whole 190mm of travel can be used with an air shock or a coil shock and it is versatile for all sized riders.

As a result of our new suspension design, we have improved several things. Our anti-squat value is always ~100% in 30% sSAG with all gears unlike some other suspension designs, where the anti-squat value variation in SAG may vary significantly. 

Our leverage ratio is 2.6 in dynamic SAG and that is where most of the shocks are at their best. The leverage ratio is within a falling rate so that we can get a smooth small bump feeling and a good pedaling and cornering platform in the mid-stroke. A falling rate leverage ratio gives a smooth ending-stroke without a harsh bottom out. We have optimized the leverage ratio so that the suspension has less ground feedback and it’s more pleasant to ride seated. 

Made In-House in Finland

We’ve all at some point in the last 18 months had first-hand experience of the unique situation the cycle industry is currently in. Whether that is a 365 day lead time on a disc brake or having to wait 6 months for the latest frameset. At Pole Bicycles, we’re no exception to the same supply chain difficulties. The one thing we do have as an advantage is our ability to manufacture in-house, in Finland with our own CNC machinery. This puts us not only in a unique position in terms of developing and manufacturing framesets across our model portfolio, but we can avoid any unnecessary delays in production from a third-party manufacturer.

The Voima in not only its unique design and capabilities but also in the way we move forward in production. 

The Voima will be produced as a frameset only for the time being with complete builds coming later in 2021, early 2022 when the global supply chain levels out.  

We are also changing the way in which we pre-sell. The uncertainty globally has made people wary of putting large deposits against an order for products and we get it!  That’s why a 200 € deposit is all it takes to secure a Voima frameset. The deposit secures the frameset production slots.

In the future, our production lead times will be shorter and manufacturing much more efficient. Our goal is to have framesets available in stock as orders are placed. 

A premium product without the Premium Price

Production is due to begin in Autumn, with only K2 and K3 framesets available on a limited basis. 

Framesets will cost an introduction price of 5490 € and complete builds coming in at 8490 € and will arrive in early 2022. The after the introduction price, framesets will be 5990 € and complete builds will be 8990 €.

There will also be an option to purchase BMZ batteries directly from us in the future.

As our experience of CNC machining has developed, expanded, and has been refined, we are now in a position to manufacture the Voima with lower production costs, which in turn can be passed onto the customer in the MSRP.

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